Everyday Life

Everyday life…
May 30, 2008

Portugal is a magical place for us not only because it if its beauty and culture but also because we live entirely differently than we ever could live in the United States. We have taken time to travel a bit to Lisbon twice now and to Vila Nova Milfontes an incredible beach town in the southern coast of Portugal. But the majority of our days are spent in Chaves and though the days are not very special, I still marvel at how wonderfully different these days are from those we have at home.

We have our little village house in Sao Lourenco. It is small and situated at the top of the village. The upstairs portion of our house is the living space and the lower level is where our bedrooms can be found. The weather has been damp and cold since our arrival. There has been too much rain. Because one of our walls is the actual stone from underground – water trickles down the rock into our bedroom and bathroom when it rains. Lately, it feels like we are living in a dark, damp cave.

When the church bells clang 8 times, we get up, get dressed and drive down to Duarte’s parent’s bed and breakfast – Quinta da Mata. Duarte’s mother greets us eagerly with warm hugs and the traditional two kisses. We all sit down at the table in the kitchen for breakfast. The table is adorned with a red table cloth and there is a great variety of irresistibly fresh pastries, cheeses, breads, jams scattered all about the table. We drink orange juice and coffee with warm milk. Dona Orlanda always scrambles a few eggs just plucked from the chicken’s nest for Jenna and I.

With our bellies full, we leave the kids to play with their grandparents or with the employees of Quinta da Mata. Duarte and I typically hop on our mountain bikes for a 2 or 3 hour bike ride. The rides this year are as splendid as last year – but we have had less time to physically prepare our bodies for the long climbs necessary to get anywhere from Quinta da Mata. Yesterday, we rode 2 hours up a mountain and then rode 1 hour down. The scenery is always amazing and thankfully a good distraction from the pain that I feel in my legs. The villages, however, are the best part of our rides. The people of these villages look as though they could have lived at any point in time. The women wear black and purple scarves upon their heads, a sweater, a black skirt, tights and black clogs. The men, I have already described. They dress nicely but their clothes are faded and worn with age. The men and women we see are typically working side by side in their fields. They smile toothless smiles and yell out cheers of encouragement.

Lunch time is another grand feast and no different than dinner. A warm, blended vegetable soup served with fresh bread is the first course of our meal. The main dish varies from day to day. Chicken, fish, fish or fish, octopus, rabbit, duck stew are the more common foods served for lunch or for dinner. Rice, fried potatoes that are divine, olives and salad from the garden complete the main meal. To drink we almost always have a glass of wine. Dessert also varies depending on our mood – fresh fruit or cake or flan. No meal is complete in this country without an espresso.

Duarte works in the afternoon. I put the kids down for a nap and then do my own thing. When the kids, wake up, we play outside. Marcos is really enjoying soccer these days. He dresses in soccer clothes and wears the new cleats his grandfather bought for him. We have “a big game” in the evenings. Marcos and his grandfather are very close friends. The affection Filinto shows for Marcos is so special. I love to watch them together.

Jenna isn’t quite as independent as Marcos is while we are living here- as she is only 2 years old and there are many dangers around the farm. Jenna has boundaries and must be watched more carefully. Jenna enjoys the animals of the farm and she loves playing with Marcos. Her grandmother adores her and does everything she can think of to please her grand daughter.

At 6:00, we eat a lighter meal. Cakes, cheeses, bread, jams and tea.

Dinner isn’t served until 8:30, so the days feel much longer than our days in the United States. We all enjoy the huge meal and then load up the Land Rover to drive back up the mountain to our own house. The kids are asleep by 10:00. Duarte and I enjoy a little time to ourselves before we too fall asleep.

This is a good life. I wish I could have even one part of it to take home with me. What would it be? The cook? The laundry? The maids? The babysitters? I guess it will just have to be the memories.