I've been duped

I’ve been duped. Madeira, Portugal
May 24, 2009


I'm sitting in an open cafe in Madeira, Portugal. It's a bustling Sunday morning and I'm listening to the clang of church bells and the sounds of tourists breakfasting at tables beside ours. Duarte, Lipe and I are visiting Madeira for a long weekend without the kids. It is an odd thing to suddenly be on vacation and to know so little about the place where I'm visiting. Lipe has set up the entire weekend and I'm along for the ride. So, when I heard we were going to a tropical island way out in the Atlantic ocean - “an island like Hawaii” Duarte and Lipe said, I packed my bathing suit, a paperback and some shorts. I was duped.

Yes, this is an island like Hawaii. It’s very tropical with many banana plantations, black stones, volcanic peaks and EVERYTHING is on an incline... up, up up or down, down, down. But this is not a place to lounge on the beach. There really aren’t any beaches as the island is so rocky and steep. This is an island where people come to hike. Hike! Who goes on vacation to hike? Imagine my surprise.

Yesterday, after a winding drive up, around and through the mountain, I found myself at the highest elevation on the island away from the warmth, sunshine and blue skies in cotton shorts and a synthetic t-shirt. It was about 40 degrees and we were up in the clouds - no sun to be seen. We hiked through lush forests with about 500 other tourists to some pretty incredible waterfalls. Though the scenery truly was remarkable - the tourists were a big turn off for me.

Our hunger was great after 5 hours of hiking and so we sought a nice meal. We drove to a fishing village and had dinner on an outdoor patio overlooking the ocean. We ate “caco” bread and I enjoyed a meal of swordfish with bananas and “ponchas” and “nikitas” to drink. The meal was perfectly satisfying and I anticipated the day being over until we got a phone call. A friend of LIpe’s invited us over for dinner! Lipe wasn’t truthful and told him we hadn’t eaten because he didn’t want to offend the friend. So the next thing I know, we were sitting down for another huge Portuguese meal. It is offensive to hosts in this culture to refuse anything and to not take second helpings. As I mounded up my plate, I cursed Lipe for his deception. We waddled out of their ocean-view apartment around 1:00am. - filled to the top with food and wine.

Today the plan is to hike once again. Apparently today’s hike will be “very exposed.” I’m concerned about this as yesterday’s hike did not have this demarcation and there were times when the path was only 2.5 feet wide with a drop off so steep, I could not see the ground below (guard rails are “not typical.”) Keeping up with these adventurous Portuguese men has proven to be more than I bargained for. I’ll let you know how I fare today. I’m certain there will be some stories to tell.

Later…

Yes, I have a story to tell, damn it. Thirty minutes into our hike today, I realized that my overwhelming sense of vertigo was not to allow me to complete the planned 3- hour hike. This hike consisted of a 3 feet wide path with a light wire “guard rail” on either side. This flimsy guardrail was all that stood between the hiker and depths too far below for me to glimpse or fathom. I promptly bailed on the boys and decided to try my luck driving on this ridiculously steep island. I don’t know what was more risky the hike or the drive.

Lipe compassionately insisted that the drive would be easy and that I could “just meet them at the other peak” where they were hiking. He said – “just get in the car, go left at the first intersection and then look for signs”. He also said that the drive would take an hour and a half. Have you ever jumped in a car turned left and then seen a sign that points to your destination when the destination is over an hour away? Once again, I realized, I had been duped.

Lipe has a Portuguese speaking GPS navigation system for driving. Thinking I was being so crafty, I tampered with her to find the British speaker named Anna. Anna (aka: Matilda, dad!) and I quickly became enemies. She is a know it all who will not divulge information when I need it, nor is she trustworthy and she doesn’t tell me when I am wrong. I hate Anna. It would be hard to go into precise detail of all that occurred during the 2 hours Anna and I were together. I will say that I circled a little village more than 14 times before I gave up and cried. Also, I drove up an incline so steep it would have been better to have used a ladder and when I was half way up this hill (in first gear) another car came down the opposite way and I had to BACK UP!!!! F$%& Anna!

I’m now on the balcony of our hotel room hoping the acid reflux I experienced during my outing will soon go away. I called Duarte and Lipe and told them they were on their own for getting home. I wonder if they will make it back today? I wonder if I care?

For now, I’ll drink my beer, look out at the ocean and be so grateful for a peaceful moment in this ridiculous “vacation.”

A Very Good Day

Tuesday, April 18, 2009
To stay up into the wee hours of a new day with loved ones and watch from our very own window the last bit of light fade from the sky is a rare and treasured occurrence. Lipe joined us after we put the kids to bed for a night of pondering the meaning of life while sipping aguardente and musing over the perfection of that exact moment in time.

And so the day began and further opened to even more incredible moments that I want to remember and savor.

Duarte and I escaped for a few hours on our mountain bikes. We explored the ancient landscape and looked out upon spring all around us. The hills were alive with birds singing and flowers blooming, water trickling and fresh green meadows as far as the eye could see. The fragrance of lavender filled the air as our pedals brushed the purple flowers along the old, gravel road.

Being true to our way of exploring, we found ourselves lost on an old path off a more well-traveled road. Instead of turning around, we pressed forward and carried our bikes to the top of the hill. From above we looked down upon a field of tall, green grass swaying with the breeze. Within the grass were pockets of white chamomile flowers. We rode down through the shoulder high grass. I laughed with the swimming feeling I was experiencing. The grass gently brushed my legs, my arms and my body and the air was filled with the calming scent of chamomile. I couldn’t tell where my tires were going and just held on with a bit of adrenaline pulsing through my body.

After a deliciously hearty lunch at Quinta da Mata, Geninha and I took Jenna shopping. Jenna likes clothes and she likes shoes and she liked just about everything in the store. Her adoring grandmother indulged her with whatever her little heart desired and we walked out of the store with an entirely new wardrobe for Jenna who is only three years old. She looked pretty good in her white sunglasses, soft cotton – “gypsy” dress and her pink Hello Kitty shoes.

Just before dinner we stood in the driveway in front of Quinta da Mata. The sheep had come in as they normally do towards the end of the day. Duarte and his father were talking and I was watching Marcos and Jenna wrestle in the grass. I looked up and noticed 6 young sheep frolicking up and down the hill. They looked like dogs as they chased each other with youthful vigor. It was incredible to watch the silly sheep play so carelessly while their boring elders scrambled to eat a few more bites of grass before going to bed.

After dinner, Filinto walked up the hill to put the sheep into the barn for the night. Marcos ran out after him and they walked hand in hand to the barn to accomplish their task. My heart filled with love for this incredible life our children get to live and experience.

Portugal reminds me to slow down and open my senses and enjoy a day and all of its gifts. Today I felt the love of my family, I smelled the fragrance of wildflowers, I was touched by long, soft grass swaying in the breeze, and the music of a thousand birds filled my ears. I lived this day well. And now I’ll descend our spiral staircase to our dark little bedroom and count the church bells until my eyes will no longer stay open. Ate mana.

A Better Place

April 17, 2009

Arriving in Portugal this time has felt extraordinarily different from the many other times we have arrived in Portugal. Walking into Quinta da Mata was like walking into my own home. It felt so familiar and pleasant. Instantly I felt the love of home and the smell of an old place and I knew there would be many good days ahead.

What has changed is me. Another year has passed with it trial and tribulations. Our every day battle for balance and peace is puzzling as we find it here so readily. Duarte and I are frequently at odds with one another at home, there are so many things to be done, and the kids have needs. In Portugal, all of this dissipates and we become very different people - Happier, more agreeable people.

Duarte and I are enjoying laughter and easy conversation. We hop on our bikes and travel over the varied landscape and talk and talk without any tension whatsoever. Marcos and Jenna are free and independent. Marcos KNOWS Quinta da Mata. He is the master of his own big world here. He can hike about the farm, pick cherries from the trees, catch big air on his own bicycle ramps and cuddle up in a chair with his dog “Bella.” Jenna finally seems old enough to be a kid here. She and her grandfather hike up to the chicken cages and gather warm eggs from the chickens. Her eyes twinkle from this experience. She is so happy.

My heart is full of love and peace and balance. Portugal is good for my soul. I’m very glad to be here.