Surf Diaries

Sagres, Portugal – May 19, 2007

I am a beach girl – there is no doubt about it. I love the mountains and the mountains are where I live and work – but the beach is where my spirit soars. We are in Sagres, the southernmost point of Portugal and Europe. It was from here that the first explorers departed to discover the new world. High cliffs overlook the meeting of two great oceans – the Atlantic and the Mediterranean. Sagres is a surfing and windsurfing mecca for enthusiasts from around the world.

We are here to surf. Or rather, I am here to surf. A lifelong dream of mine is finally being fulfilled. Duarte surprised me on Christmas day with a certificate promising me one full week of surf lessons. Four hours a day to do something so incredibly self- serving. If it weren’t a gift I would never have even thought of such a luxury. This is one gift I wouldn’t return. As it turns out I will be having one week of private lessons with a Brazilian, English speaking instructor who has been surfing for 18 years. His name is Rafael.

Today I had my first lesson, I was so nervous, so anxious. Being a Florida girl, I have spent most of my life swimming only in warm water. If it is cold, I don’t go in. My greatest fear facing the week was getting into the cold water. Would I be able to go in? The day was uncharacteristically windy and the tide incredibly choppy. I wasn’t so sure. But dreams are dreams and there was no way I would let cold water stand in my way of a week of surf. My instructor fitted me with a nice wetsuit to keep me warm. Ahhh… already I was feeling more relaxed. Next we found a surfboard. Then we were off to the beach in the rusty old surf van of the International School of Surf.

At the praia de Tonel, high cliffs surrounded the choppy blue cove where I would have my first day of surfing. Though we were in a cove, there was not shelter from the violent wind. It was hard to open my eyes as the sand from the beach was blasting us with each gust. After thirty minutes of land instruction, Rafael and I headed for the ocean to give it a try. I entered the water with a rush of adrenaline. My breath was short with the cold water but the adrenaline kept me from really feeling the cold. The first nice wave came, I turned the board toward shore, paddled and I caught the very first wave I ever tried to surf! I was surfing!!! Okay, maybe it wasn’t pretty and I did fall pretty quickly but I did it. I was exhilarated. I played in the waves for about an hour practicing the motion of standing up over and over again. The current and the wind were so strong that it took all of the strength I had to get the board back out into the surf after catching each wave. After about 10 waves and one longer ride… I was pooped. It was a hard day. I am surprised by how physical surfing truly is.

Now as I anticipate tomorrow’s lesson, I hope that my aching muscles ease up so that I can enjoy tomorrow as fully as I did today. Man, I am tired. It would be nice if the wind would ease up as well.



Tuesday, May 20, 1997 – Surfing hurts.

Day two of surf lessons was brutal. I awoke this morning feeling surprisingly better than I expected to feel after a few hours of using muscles the day before that are not frequently used. Rafael picked me up in the surf van at 10:00am and off we went to scout the waves and the conditions. The wind was still blowing pretty hard but not nearly with the force as yesterday. The sun was shining and the temperatures were to get as high as 50 degrees today. I felt the day’s promise. We opted to return to the praia de Tonel once again. The conditions weren’t great but for learning they would be okay.

We entered the water right away. The wetsuit certainly kept me warmer than I would have been without it – but that water was COLD!! The North winds that had been blowing for two days now effectively cooled the ocean – much to my dismay. I managed to stand up on the first wave but I shivered all the way until I fell. Wave two turned out to be my best ride of the day. Not only did I stand up but I surfed it! What a rush! My confidence was soaring. The feeling of gliding and having control in the whitewater was fantastic. I couldn’t wait to catch the next one…and that is when my day took a turn. For the next hour, I was pounded by the washing machine-like waves coming in every direction. Because the cove is surrounded by high cliffs, the waves were being blown up against the high walls causing them to bounce off the walls and roll back sideways. At times there were waves coming from behind me, beside me and from in front of me. I took so many falls, so many attacks by unforgiving waves, I just couldn’t get it together. Wave after wave resulted in bruise after bruise, tweeked back, skinned feet. I really took a beating. I decided that I had had enough for the day when I could no longer feel my feet and I found that my lips were frozen in place. Rafael encouraged me to try one more wave which I did and it was a good one. I surfed that wave all the way to shore. I was too exhausted to appreciate my success and somehow willed my battered body to the place where my dry clothes waited along with a light snack. I survived the day – but just barely.

Wednesday, March 21, 2007 – A short but sweet day.

I awoke this morning thinking there would be no way I could get in the water and take a beating like I did yesterday. My body was screaming with pain. The temperature had dropped a few more degrees and the water was said to be even colder than yesterday. Argh. What had I gotten myself into? Why did I want to learn to surf anyway?

Rafael showed up at 10:00 as usual. We drove around and scouted the different beaches around Sagres and once again settled on Tonel. I willed myself into my wetsuit and reluctantly entered the water. Rafael opted not to go in today – the water would be too cold for him as he typically stands still in the water watching me and giving me feedback. And so, I was on my own. Fortunately the sea was calmer today and I was able to keep my footing as I pushed my surfboard through the waves to a point where I could start surfing. True to form, my first wave was a good one and I rode it all the way to land. I caught wave after wave doing my best to improve my stance and to gain control of the board. The ocean was much more kind to me today and I was grateful.

I was having a good day of surfing but I cut it short when the wind picked up and the ocean once again was rocking me as if I was a soft cloth is a big, sloshy washing machine. I figured I would quit while I was ahead. I realized that I am learning to surf in pretty extreme conditions – what would it be like with a calmer ocean and less wind?
Following the lesson, I entered our apartment with more steady legs to stand on, arms capable of holding my kids and enough energy to play for the remainder of the afternoon. Duarte bought Marcos a boogie board and Marcos was so excited. He couldn’t wait to show me his new “surfboard.” He exclaimed “I’m going to be a surfer just like Mama.”

Tomorrow is supposed to be a great day with less wind, warmer temperatures and smaller waves. That sounds good to me!